A streetwear icon’s new restaurant has L.A.’s buzziest burgers and a long list of martinis
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Ben Shenassafar never thought he’d get into the restaurant business, but the co-founder of world-famous streetwear and lifestyle brand the Hundreds has done precisely that with the opening of the Benjamin on Melrose Avenue. Now the fashion executive is checking in on guests, recommending martinis from a bevy of options and dining on a burger that has quickly become a contender for one of the best in a city full of delicious burgers.
“My closest friends are some great restaurateurs and I’ve seen them open up a lot of big, great restaurants, and I’ve known how hard it is,” he said. “I’ve seen how hard they work, so I’ve never really wanted to do that. … Then about a year and a half ago, early 2023, something inside of me was just like, ‘It’s time.’”
Shenassafar’s passion for food had already begun to creep from his personal life into the professional: He founded a sprawling annual food-and-streetwear festival called Family Style, and last year became the host of his own food travel show, “Big Appetite.”
With a bit of time on his hands and looking for a new project, he connected with longtime friend and bar operator Jared Meisler (Roger Room, Gin Rummy, the Friend). They found a ground-floor space for the Benjamin, and above, Meisler got to work on a new cocktail bar called the Moon Room.
After signing the lease, Kate Burr, a friend, restaurant consultant and hospitality marketing manager, joined the partnership — also as a first-time restaurateur — helping to head up the restaurant’s branding and vision.
The trio imagined an ode to classic American cuisine with upscale touches and a bar that begs for perching. Riffing on the 1920s building, they added wood paneling and Art Deco touches to evoke Old Hollywood elegance, with door service that keeps the traffic and noise of Melrose Avenue at bay.
Executive chef Johnny Cirelle (formerly of Spago, Bestia and Bavel) created a menu that matches the feel of the space: Familiar and comforting, with refined elements. A twice-baked potato comes topped with chives, shallots and sour cream but can be supplemented with lardons or a dollop of caviar; shrimp cocktail has smoked paprika and sherry-vinegar aioli; chicken liver is whipped with vanilla and dabbed with blackberry agrodulce. Nearly every component of the predominantly brisket burger, a focal point of the menu, is made in-house daily, from the pickles and hickory sauce to the sesame-coated bun, which Cirelle likens to a cross between milk bread and brioche.
“I never thought I would be doing American food, but I’m so excited to be doing it because I do feel like it’s something that’s missing,” Cirelle said. “It feels like people really want this and it’s something that they’re drawn to, even if they’re from immigrant families. It’s something that’s easily recognizable and craveable, and we want to make it as approachable as possible but done really, really well.”
A few of Cirelle’s dishes correspond to the trio of owners: Meisler’s favorite, crab beignets with dehydrated dill and a side of yuzu kosho aioli for dipping; Shenassafar’s eponymous martini, made with lemon oil and served with a side of potato chips; Burr’s carrot cake topped with thick squiggles of Chantilly mascarpone cream cheese dotted with candied walnuts.
The bar program, built around martinis, is led by Nathan Oliver (formerly of Church & State, No Vacancy, Ink) and features classics as well as variants, plus seasonal cocktails such as a cayenne-tinged Scotch sour, a raspberry-and-lemongrass Collins and a serrano-laced strawberry margarita.
“I grew up in this city and I love L.A., and I feel like L.A. wants and needs a restaurant like this,” Shenassafar said. He added, “To be accepted as a part of it, and be taken seriously, and to have the support really means a lot to me, and I don’t take it for granted at all.”
The Benjamin is open Tuesday to Saturday from 5:30 to “late,” with last reservations available at 10:15 p.m.
7174 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 888-9000, thebenjaminhollywood.com
Marelle
Beachy new restaurant Marelle is now open one block from the ocean in Santa Monica, with a longtime local chef at the helm. Raphael Lunetta — also of Lunetta and formerly of JiRaffe — is heading up the restaurant in the new Sandbourne Santa Monica hotel, serving a global menu of produce- and seafood-forward dishes such as crab cakes with summer corn, poached shrimp and sweet pepper relish; hamachi crudo with jalape?o-and-lime ponzu and farmers market fruit; a salmon BLT with tarragon aioli; and herb-roasted chicken with polenta, peaches and shishitos. Beverage director Amanda Fewster (formerly of Etta and Cal Mare) oversees a menu that spotlights spirits made locally and by women- and BIPOC-run companies, with cocktails such as a Sichuan peppercorn- and serrano-tinged margarita and a tiki riff with pineapple rum, banana liqueur and Thai tea. Marelle is open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. with nearly 200 seats spread across a spacious patio, dining room, lounge and a private dining space.
1740 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, marelle.com
Bakers Bench
After years of planning, some of L.A.’s most celebrated croissants have expanded from a small Chinatown weekend kiosk to a full Victor Heights bakery with new items and more space — and everything is vegan. Bakers Bench was launched in 2021 by owner-operator Jennifer Yee, a veteran of some of the world’s most lauded pastry operations and restaurants, including the French Laundry, Jean-Georges, Bouchon, Konbi and Craftsman and Wolves. Now, she’s temporarily shuttered her kiosk and reopened nearby with space to grow her offerings, her staff and her goals.
The new location uses roughly 400 square feet of a repurposed Craftsman that she shares with a new location of Cassell’s Hamburgers, which is currently soft-opened. The dual business is a cornerstone of the development project of a bungalow court that also houses Perilla, Heavy Water Coffee and, soon, Baby Bistro. Yee plans to reopen the kiosk in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza after the summer’s heat has passed.
Architect and preservationist Jingbo Lou restores one corner of Victor Heights, a sliver of a neighborhood between Echo Park and Chinatown. Neighbors are waiting to see how it changes the area.
“People always think I do something very secretive and very crazy and very revolutionary with the croissants, but that’s absolutely not true,” Yee said. “It’s croissants. Everybody wants the secret trick and there’s no secret trick. We use good lamination technique, we try very hard, and that’s that.” Yee relies on plant-based butter brand Tourlami and soy milk, but beyond that, her ingredients and techniques are standard — what makes these vegan croissants shine is the work and attention to detail. The process for her croissants takes four days.
Her cooking philosophy remains the same in the new location: simple ingredients without additives, and focusing on whole vegetables and fruits from local farms such as Tamai Family Farms, Andy’s Orchard and 2 Peas in a Pod.
While the kiosk offers low financial overhead and the flexibility to close or shift hours of operation when needed, Yee always hoped to open a full bakery. The expansion has allowed her to add to her line of vegan items with new tarts and cookies, cakes, refrigerated fruit jellies, whole pies and sandwiches. She uses fresh soy milk from Gardena-based Meiji Tofu in her croissants; now, with more space, she turns the surplus soy milk into fresh tofu pudding in the new bakery’s cold case, or into sauces and spreads.
“I was kind of doing my identity search for what I want the bakery to be. I really settled upon two things,” Yee said. “I want to create a more sustainable model for bakeries, and I want to provide jobs; I want to teach people how to bake. … I’m very passionate about this trade and this profession, and I want to see good food in L.A.”
Bakers Bench is open in Victor Heights Thursday to Monday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
1021 Alpine St., Bldg. A, Los Angeles, bakersbenchla.com
Din Tai Fung Anaheim
World-renowned Taiwanese restaurant and dumpling specialist Din Tai Fung is now open at Downtown Disney with a sprawling 7,500-square-foot location, its own merch line and, of course, the brand’s signature hand-folded xiao long bao. The Anaheim outpost is part of a spate of new restaurant openings in the shopping and dining stretch located adjacent to the Disneyland and California Adventure theme parks; a trio of Mexican restaurants — Paseo, Céntrico and Tiendita — debuted from “Top Chef’s” Carlos Gaytán earlier this year.
The new Din Tai Fung offers the chain’s classic Taiwanese and Chinese dishes such as steamed buns, noodle soups, stir-fries and salt-and-pepper pork chops, plus a circular bar and a peek into the kitchen, where cooks hand-form the signature soup dumplings with 18 folds apiece. In addition to the opening of its latest location, the world-famous dumpling chain recently released its first apparel line, DTF Essentials, consisting of streetwear-inspired tees and hoodies. A separate line of crewnecks, tees and more features the smiling-dumpling mascot named Bao Bao, and is available only at the Anaheim restaurant. Din Tai Fung is open in Anaheim daily from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
1547 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, (714) 202-7598, dintaifungusa.com/us
Ruta 15
A new Long Beach cevichería traces a path down Mexico’s Carretera Federal 15, with dishes inspired by the famous highway and 14 cities and regions, from Tijuana to Mexico City. Ruta 15 sits adjacent to La Taqueria Brand, which is also owned by restaurateur Richard Mosqueda. While his taqueria explores a handful of styles and fillings, at the full-service Ruta 15 executive chef César Sánchez León serves a range of cocteles, Baja oysters, ceviches, tostadas, entrées and tacos — some filled with Sonoran-style grilled meats and beans, others with spicy shrimp and savory “fish chicharrones.” There are Culichi-style shrimp in creamy green sauce with cilantro rice; Michoacan-style enchiladas with chicken and cueritas; Jalisco-style fried potato tacos with an oregano-laced tomato sauce; and more. Ruta 15 is open Monday, Tuesday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
1436 E. 7th St., Long Beach, (562) 323-0228, ruta15cevichebar.com
The Win-Dow Hollywood
One of L.A.’s favorite — and most affordable — burgers just expanded to Hollywood. The Win-Dow, famed for its $4.35 cheeseburgers and a menu where all items are priced below $10, is now open with a walk-up window inside the Ovation Hollywood complex off the corner of Hollywood and Highland. The smashburger spot first debuted next to its sibling restaurant, steakhouse American Beauty, in 2019, and has since expanded with more locations and menu options. In addition to burgers and fries, the Win-Dow serves a veggie burger, fried chicken sandwiches, a grain bowl, kale salad and dipped ice cream cones and spun milkshakes. During weekend breakfast, look for items such as steak and egg burritos and egg-topped smashburgers. The Win-Dow is now open daily in Hollywood from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. A new location of American Beauty is slated to open in the Grove this fall.
6801 Hollywood Blvd., Suite #257, Los Angeles, (323) 488-4833, thewin-dow.la
Handel’s Los Feliz
Just in time for summer heatwaves, a nearly 80-year-old ice cream chain now can be found in Los Feliz. Handel’s was founded in 1945 in Ohio but today operates more than two dozen locations throughout Los Angeles and Orange County. Known for its nostalgic, churned ice cream in options such as banana cream pie, chocolate malt, cake batter, the Elvis, lemon bar, and mint with Oreos, each shop keeps roughly 50 flavors on hand at any time — including old-school sherbets, vegan ice creams, sorbets and ices. The beloved ice cream shop operates in a small kiosk at the base of the Elinor Building in Los Feliz. The chain has been expanding; earlier this year it opened in Santa Clarita, then debuted its first Bay Area location, in Walnut Creek. In 2023 it launched an outpost in Santa Monica. Find Handel’s serving cups, cones, spun “hurricanes,” chocolate-dipped ice cream pops, ice cream sandwiches and pints Monday to Wednesday from noon to 10 p.m.; Thursday and Sunday from noon to 10:30 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday from noon to 11 p.m.
4531 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 675-3919
DineL.A.
One of the county’s top times to find dining deals and special menus is underway, with more than 300 restaurants participating in DineL.A. The semiannual citywide event always sees a mix of restaurants and bars offering prix fixe menus and special items; this iteration, which runs now through July 26, involves meals starting at $15, with most priced at $65 or below. Some of the city’s best restaurants and L.A. Times 101 List establishments can be found on the roster, such as Yangban, Sichuan Impression and A.O.C., and more than 40 of this DineL.A.’s restaurants are Michelin Guide-recognized — including new Koreatown restaurant Danbi, which was just added to Michelin’s California guide last week.
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